Ambatomanga, a call from nature
Famous for its delicious cheeses, Ambatomanga, or “blue rock” as it is translated, is a small village located some forty kilometers east of Antananarivo, overlooked by an immense granite rock. The village is known for its quiet surroundings, multi-story houses with tiled roofs, courteous inhabitants who still preserve the Merina peasant culture, and typical landscapes with rice terraces.
It was a beautiful morning when you set out to discover Ambatomanga. Clear skies, combined with a breath of fresh morning air, promised a pleasant day. Along the way, the winding road gradually revealed the magnificent landscapes of the Highlands, with their verdant hills and scenes of everyday peasant life. Ambatomanga, with its authentic charm, called you to adventure. A three-hour walk awaited you, without revealing all the surprises.
The climb to the top, between history and panorama
After a short briefing and warm-up at the village entrance, you’ll begin the ascent to the summits of Ambatomanga, a three-hour loop hike. The trail, sometimes steep, offers superb views of the surrounding valley. Each step brings you closer to these legendary stones, silent witnesses to the area’s rich history. As you climb these arid slopes, you’ll encounter villagers who share the story of the kings and queens who once ruled these lands. The climb, though tiring, is a true immersion in the local culture, where traditional architecture, with its mud houses and thatched or tiled roofs, remains fashionable. Small visits to weaving and basket-making workshops (raffia, fabrics, paper recycling) and to local forges, where cooking and farming utensils are made, are included in the program. The friendly locals will even offer you a fresh honeycomb to replenish your strength.
In the past, Ambatomanga was primarily a border village between Bezanozano and Imerina. All foreigners had to wait for authorization from the king or queen before entering Imerina. The village was also an important center of intellectual training. In the 19th century, missionaries Jones and Jeffreys founded a college and high school there, benefiting all the inhabitants of the Vakiniadiana region. Today, the majority of inhabitants specialize in rice cultivation, zebu and dairy cow rearing, as well as agriculture. Numerous craft workshops (ironmongery, rabane-making, etc.) are also located there, and small cheese shops can be found on every street corner.
A moment of pure serenity at the summit
Once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view. The local guide will tell you that this is where the deceased kings and queens of ancient times are buried. As far as the eye can see, you’ll observe green hills, villages nestled here and there, distant from one another, and in the distance, misty mountain peaks. You can sit on a large stone, savoring this moment of peace and tranquility. The gentle wind will carry the scent of wildflowers and freshly turned earth. This moment of communion with nature will be nothing short of magical. After a few hours of contemplation, it will be time to come back down, light-hearted and soothed, with the desire to return one day to explore more of Ambatomanga’s secrets.
Ambatomanga is renowned for its cheeses, made by local farmers. The finest local cheeses are produced by hand. You’ll find a wide variety of exquisitely authentic cheeses, with the opportunity to visit the cheese-making workshops. Keep a few pennies in your pocket as a token of thanks, as you’ll be able to taste these freshly made cheeses. However, be warned that some are not yet ripe. Cheese-making is one of the highlights of the small village of Ambatomanga and a major attraction for tourists and visitors alike. You’ll have the chance to discover the cheese-making process and appreciate the skills of the artisan cheesemakers.
