Toamasina, also known as Tamatave, is Madagascar’s main port and plays a crucial role in the island’s maritime trade. Located on the east coast, Toamasina’s primary tourist attraction lies in its diverse tourist population. Throughout the year, the eastern capital welcomes visitors of all nationalities: French, Japanese, German, and Chinese, mostly engineers, technicians, and businesspeople who mingle in the hotels. During the vacation season, the sight of tourists sitting along the seafront is almost ritualistic. Although Toamasina has now been overtaken by Mahajanga as the leading tourist city, this unique spectacle is enough to prove that in Madagascar, the words “vacation” and “tourism” are still closely associated with Toamasina.
A Cultural and Historical mix
The overland route to Toamasina is one not to be missed. National Route 2 starts from Antananarivo and winds down the stepped cliffs through dense forest, where orchids and lianas sometimes overrun the path. Unfortunately, the rains that perpetually drench the entire eastern region have turned this beautiful route into a nightmare for nervous drivers: the narrow road is strewn with ruts, erosion sometimes washes away the edges, and frequent truck traffic has caused potholes all along the way.
Despite these difficulties, Toamasina remains a city with a rich cultural and historical heritage. Founded by French settlers, it has preserved many buildings from the colonial era, giving it a unique charm. The city is also a cultural crossroads where Malagasy, European, and Asian influences converge.
Its picturesque markets, Bazar Be (the large market) and Bazar Kely (the small market), are well worth a visit. The former extends under an immense hangar divided into several sections: fruit and vegetables, gargotes where, at all hours of the day, dockers and rickshaw pullers come to have a snack—often a huge plate of rice—around small circular tables, and finally, handicrafts where the inevitable straw hats of all colors mingle with shells and raffia.
Bazar Kely is the remnant of a commercial block that was burned down in 1973, with most of the buildings having since been renovated. In the center of the bazaar, what was once a garden has become a market for potatoes, jackfruit, and lychees. Those who don’t enjoy the hustle and bustle can visit some of the famous sites in the Toamasina area.
Exotic beaches and natural attractions
Fortunately, the beautiful city of Toamasina has many other assets. It also boasts its own heavenly beaches and natural attractions.
Let’s start with its experimental garden. Just 11 km north of Toamasina lies the Ivoloina experimental garden, home to all the plant species of the eastern forests, as well as cheerful representatives of lemurs of all kinds. Thirty kilometers from the city, on the road to Mahavelona, Foulpointe (also known as Fasandiana) offers many attractions—not just for bathers, but also for lovers of the unusual. Bordering the region’s most beautiful beach, curious sheds stand beneath the mangroves. Through their ravinala trunk walls, you can see pirogues lined up on the ground, arranged in pairs. These are the coffins of the dead, exhumed here five years after death to be cleansed of their carnal dust before being placed in their final resting places. The custom, inherited from Malay ancestors, is for the dead to be laid to rest in pirogues, simply placed on the ground facing the sea.
Visitors can enjoy the beauty of the sandy beaches, lined with palm and coconut trees, and the tranquility of the sea while discovering the rich culture of the Eastern people. Just a few kilometers from the city, the Canal des Pangalanes, a vast network of lakes and rivers, offers boat trips through lush vegetation.
