Located in the Ihorombe region, this rich basin, where the dead reside, is dizzying. The vineyards and tobacco fields seem overwhelmed by the black massif of Andringitra and the famous Ambondrombe rock, where spirits seek refuge after death. Ambalavao should be less than an hour’s drive from Fianarantsoa, the capital of the Betsileo region, but with the current state of roads in Madagascar, more time should be allowed. You travel through terraced rice fields that cover the hills. The lack of land on the high plateaus has led farmers for centuries to develop a unique cultivation method: they have tackled the mountains and hills, creating their rice paddies through successive terraces. Irrigation is done by capturing rainwater and controlled torrents that flow down through all the terraces. These are soon followed by a forest of shrubs, the tapia, a genuine reserve of silkworms strictly protected against bushfires.
A Colorful Market
The town of Ambalavao has its own unique colors. Pale shades for balconies and windows: gray, faded blue, and very light green. In family gardens, roses and dahlias coexist with prickly pears, which have delicious yellow fruit and painful thorns. Ambalavao hosts its famous weekly market, one of the largest and most lively in Madagascar. Every Wednesday, locals from the surrounding areas flock to sell their products: fruits, vegetables, spices, and especially the renowned zebu. This market, with its friendly and colorful atmosphere, offers a complete immersion in Malagasy culture. Visitors can explore stalls filled with handcrafted goods, traditional clothing, and of course, taste local specialties. Upon closer inspection, pieces of wood and mysterious seeds of all colors are spread out on mats or small tables. These are miracle products, and their abundance has made Madagascar the African country where traditional medicine has seamlessly transitioned into an era of industrial exploitation. Some sticks cure coughs, certain buds treat diarrhea, and some incense relieves headaches, even epilepsy. With a little persistence, visitors can even ask a small vial containing a carefully crafted honey-based mixture: the love potion.
The production of Antemoro Paper and Craftsmanship
Among Ambalavao’s unique features, the production of Antemoro paper holds a prominent place. Behind the Catholic church, on a street parallel to the national road, a family-run business produces this paper. This ancient craft, introduced by early Arab migrants, is preserved in the region and is a major attraction for visitors. The paper, made from avoha bark fibers, pounded and softened with water, is decorated with dried flowers, creating delicate and colorful patterns. In the past, coastal astrologers wrote their prophecies, verses from the Quran, or recipes on this paper. Today, this specialty is used to make lampshades or decorates the walls of discerning collectors in Europe or America. A visit to the workshop is a unique opportunity to discover this ancestral skill and acquire beautiful souvenirs.
Another artisanal product that enhances Ambalavao’s reputation is the lamba arindrano, a large rectangle of silk fabric, entirely hand-spun, with geometric patterns reminiscent of the funerary monuments from the southern regions. Draping a woman’s shoulder or serving as a shroud for an ancestor, this lamba signifies love and wealth. As a bedspread or tablecloth, it reflects refined taste.
Sanctuary of All Ancestors and Gateway to the Andringitra Massif
In addition to its artisanal products and colorful decorations, Ambalavao is especially known for being at the heart of Malagasy civilization: its basin is the valley of the dead, and the surrounding massifs are the domain of the spirits of all ancestors. Ambondrombe is said to be their Elysium. To reach it, 42 km of good track, east of Ambalavao, lead first to Ambohimahamasina, the last easily accessible village. From there, one must climb the immense rock of Ambondrombe. The locals, some farmers who are very much alive, have the privilege of being companions of the spirits. At any time of day, these spirits manifest themselves: one hears songs, laments, laughter, drumming, but it is also said that these sounds are just echoes of the wind.
Ambalavao is also the ideal starting point to explore the Andringitra Massif and its national park, a remnant of primary forest. The entrance to the site is 40 km south of Ambalavao, in the village of Antanifotsy, at the foot of Pic Boby. This natural site is full of mysteries. Locals advise against visiting, as the mystery still reigns supreme, and several local proverbs refer to it, expressing difficulty, despair, remoteness, and the unimaginable. Yet despite all this, this site of exceptional beauty is a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. The varied landscapes, ranging from grassy plains to rocky peaks, harbor a rich biodiversity, with endemic species of fauna and flora. Climbing Pic Boby, the second highest peak in Madagascar, is an unforgettable adventure for travelers seeking challenges and spectacular views.
