A historic city in the heart of the highlands:
On a journey southward through the big island, one cannot overlook Fianarantsoa, the capital of the Betsileo region, called “Fianar” by locals. Known as “the city where good is learned,” it has become the undisputed intellectual capital of Madagascar.
The strong concentration of Christian missionaries, combined with the inhabitants’ innate interest in work and scholarship, has transformed this terraced city in the heart of the Highlands into a must-visit destination for publishers, authors, and historians. This unique character alone justifies a visit to Fianarantsoa.
Nestled 408 km from Antananarivo, the city was founded in the early 19th century from a small village surrounded by terraced rice fields. It was Queen Ranavalona I who decided to establish her second capital there, intended to become a center for the spread of Christianity.
Today, Fianarantsoa is one of the most important cities in the country, preserving a rich historical and cultural heritage, with its colonial buildings, churches, and schools. In the streets, the abundance of bookstores rivals that of artisanal products. In addition to their scholarship, the inhabitants of the entire region are renowned for their great manual skills: basketry, weaving, and mat-making have a dedicated quarter here, located in a lane parallel to the road coming from Antananarivo.
The capital of malagasy wine:
Fianarantsoa has a distinctive advantage: its wine production center. Thanks to a favorable climate, the surrounding hills are covered with vineyards that produce some of the best wines in Madagascar. Since the 1970s, wine production has seen a dramatic increase, allowing Madagascar to claim self-sufficiency in alcoholic beverages.
Alongside wine, the market also features other products: spirits, sparkling wine, and even champagne. Fianarantsoa is also known for another type of alcohol: taoka gasy (Malagasy alcohol), a local drink made from rice or sugar cane, which, unfortunately for spirit enthusiasts, is only sold on the black market.
Guided tours can be organized for those who wish to visit the vineyards, meet local winemakers, and taste wines that reflect the unique flavors of the Betsileo terroir. The city also hosts annual festivals celebrating viticulture, attracting visitors from all over the country and abroad.
A city with three levels and a gateway to natural adventure
Visiting the city is a challenge. Its three-level structure is a puzzle for urban planners and foreigners who might struggle to find their way on a map. In reality, the city is divided into three distinct neighborhoods: in what appears to be a small valley, the commercial center has established itself, dominated by a single avenue leading to the train station. A level above is the second center: the administrative services area, with buildings clinging to the hillside. Finally, at the top, the High City, or old town, crisscrossed with countless alleys, serves as a haven for history enthusiasts.
The high hills of Kianjasoa overlook Fianarantsoa. On its slopes, traversed by a small circular path, curious steles whitened by fungi rise among the tall filaos and pines. There, one can see an immense Christian statue on a rock, also rich in history.
Beyond this cultural and historical heritage, Fianar is also a gateway to some of Madagascar’s most spectacular natural landscapes. The city is the ideal starting point to explore Ranomafana National Park, renowned for its dense tropical forests and exceptional biodiversity, including lemurs, rare birds, and a multitude of endemic plants.
