Stretching for approximately 700 km along the eastern coast of Madagascar, the Pangalanes Canal is a beauty, a national treasure. Between peaceful lakes and narrow passages, it links Tamatave (Toamasina) to Farafangana, offering a striking spectacle. It was the French who, in the late 1940s, undertook to connect this succession of estuaries to create a north-south waterway, safer than the often rough and dangerous Indian Ocean.
Today, the Pangalanes Canal is an essential route for local populations, used for transporting goods and providing access to remote areas. But behind this peaceful waterway lies a dark history. It is said that nearly 4,000 Asian workers, mobilised for 15 years, came to assist the forcibly recruited Betsimisaraka people in digging the canal. Due to inhumane working conditions and high mortality rates, these workers, known as coolies, requested repatriation to China. By 1904, only 500 remained.
Today, certain sections of the canal, particularly north of Tamatave and south of Mananjary, have become impassable, overrun by water hyacinths. Large boats can no longer navigate there, but the canal still retains its wild charm.
Despite a still high cost, an excursion on the Pangalanes Canal remains an unforgettable experience. This unique world is a true aquatic mirror, lined with tropical forests, typically isolated villages, and dotted with water lilies, elephant ear plants, and traveller’s trees. Silent dugout canoes, cargo-laden barges, and fishermen searching for brackish water fish glide along its calm waters. At every turn, scenes of life unfold, entirely centred around this fascinating waterway.
Tourism on the canal is still limited, meaning transport options are scarce and expensive. Until it becomes more accessible, one must either adapt to local transport means or have a comfortable budget for a certain level of comfort. Some bush boats allow for exploration of the canal, and most local hotels and tour operators offer excursions. However, one should not expect high-end services but rather an authentic and immersive adventure.
